How to Combine Cosmetic Ingredients that Might Fight Each Other

[Yvonne's question about the Gold Standard Ingredients for Healthy Skin appeared Tuesday.]

Salicylic Acid is the only beta hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skin care. It is a weaker exfoliant and generally less irritating than Glycolic Acid. It has the distinct advantage of working not only on the surface of the skin. Salicylic Acid also penetrates and exfoliates within the pores. It is beneficial for treating wrinkles, as well as acne, whiteheads and blackheads.

Salicylic Acid and AHAs, especially Glycolic Acid, may be combined with retinoid ingredients. DERMAdoctor Audrey Kunin, M.D., advises,

"If you are experiencing any flaking [associated with retinoid use], the use of a glycolic acid product such as MD Formulations Continuous Renewal Complex is very helpful for maximizing your skin rejuvenation results as well as controlling the flaking."

Be sure to read the next section for how to combine an AHA or BHA with retinoids.

For more information on retinoids and exfoliants, read Is Tretinoin an Exfoliant Like AHAs or the BHA, Salicylic Acid?

How to Combine Ingredients

According to Dr. Neal Schultz of DermTV, retinoids and Salicylic Acid or AHAs should not be used at the same time for the reason you state – the acids can break down the retinoids. He recommends using the acid exfoliating agents in the morning under sunscreen and the retinoids at night.

Dr. Schultz also explains that antioxidants, like Vitamin C, do their free radical scavenging work within the cells at night when the skin is programmed to repair itself.

Antioxidants applied in the morning are still helpful. During daylight, they are primarily occupied fighting off UV rays and free radicals from other sources before the free radicals penetrate the cells. Thus they have little power left to penetrate and clean within the cells.

As for Vitamin C, look for stabilized forms like Ascorbyl Palmitate, Vitamin C Ester, L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or Retinyl Ascorbate.

Let me leave you with one final thought. If retinoids are the Gold Standard of healthy skin care, broad spectrum sun protection is the Platinum. Remember, dermatologists attribute 80% of the visible signs of aging to photoaging, that is, sun damage.

Tags: retinoids, retinol, anti-aging skincare, retinoids stimulate new collagen, retinoid strength, retinoid tips, sun protection and retinoids, how to use retinoids