Friday, January 27, 2012

Combining Topical Vitamin C and Retinoids Reverses Photoaging

True Radiance A & C SerumYesterday, we talked about How to Combine Cosmetic Ingredients, specifically chemical exfoliants, antioxidants and retinoids.

For example, antioxidants applied in the morning will work primarily as sunscreens to disable environmental free radicals before they can enter your cells. However, antioxidants applied at night will apply themselves to scavenging free radicals that have already penetrated your cells.

Here’s yet another reason to be sure to apply a nightly dose of the antioxidant stabilized Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate, Vitamin C Ester, L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or Retinyl Ascorbate) along with your nighttime retinoid product.

Prescription Tretinion and Vitamin C Combined
One study showed that the combination of trichloroacetic acid peels, 0.05% prescription tretinoin (as in Retin-A and Renova) and Ascorbic Acid lotion are more effective than any of the components alone.

The combination therapy resulted in thicker epidermis, more even skin tone, and firmer, better organized stratum corneum. (Skin Rejuvenation Regimens, Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery, May 2003.)

OTC Retinol and Vitamin C Combined
A second study reported that the combination of Vitamin C with OTC Retinol is able to reverse some skin changes caused by chronological and photoaging. In two small double-blind studies in postmenopausal women with aged and photoaged skin, subjects applied a Vitamin C and Retinol cream twice daily for three- and six-month periods.

At the end of each trial, punch biopsies showed thinning and compacting of the stratum corneum (outer layer of the skin) as dead cells were shed and the remaining younger cells became better organized. The dermal-epidermal junction, which becomes ragged with age, smoothed out as well.

At the start, photoaged skin showed an abnormally high level of type III collagen when compared to non-photodamaged skin. Post treatment, the ratio of type I to type III collagen was restored to younger levels. (Histological Evaluation of a Topically Applied Retinol-Vitamin C Combination. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology Journal, Issue 2, 2005).

Products Containing Retinoids and Stabilized Vitamin C


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