Most Effective Form of Topical Vitamin C

I have a question about topical Vitamin C.

I have read that L-Ascorbic Acid is the only form of Vitamin C that is effective as a topical antioxidant and that derivatives such as Ascorbyl Palmitate are not as effective; also that the Vitamin C must be stable.

What is then the best formulation to use?

• An enclosed capsule (such as Neostrata 10%, L-ascorbic acid),
• A cream (such as La Roche-Posay Active C, 5% active and stable L-Ascorbic Acid), or
• A serum, where the concentration could be fairly high, being a serum in liquid form?

Please let me know at your earliest convenience.

Yvonne

Hi Yvonne,

You’re mostly correct. Good research, by the way!

If not stabilized, Vitamin C oxidizes and deteriorates quickly. There are several versions of (and names for) stabilized topical Vitamin C. Ascorbyl Palmitate is one of them.

Others are:

• Vitamin C Ester,
• L-Ascorbic Acid,
• Ascorbic Acid,
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate,
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate,
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate,
• Retinyl Ascorbate, … and so on.

Vitamin C is the topical antioxidant with the most science behind it and it definitely should be in your skincare routine.

No one form of stabilized Vitamin C can be said to be superior to the others ... except by product marketers.

For the well-established and successful manufacturers like the ones you mention, the choice of one form of stable Vitamin C over another is made in the context of the entire product formulation by highly qualified and degreed cosmetic chemists.

Look for a concentration of 5 to 10% stabilized Vitamin C and, just as importantly, airtight opaque packaging.

The form – capsule vs. serum vs. cream – matters less. Choose the type that you like to use.

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Good morning Jean;

Thank you so much for getting back to me and providing me with such detailed and helpful information!

I'm glad now that Lifecell 'introduced' me to you and your Ageless Beauty website; so far you have been very helpful with my skin care questions and concerns.

I may have some more questions for you in the near future!

Regards,
Yvonne

Tags: Vitamin C serum, Vitamin C cream, topical Vitamin C, stable forms of Vitamin C", best topical antioxidants, anti-aging skincare